Life in Africa IV

I had tried and tried to take a photo of the sunrise on the East Coast of Zanzibar, but always failed because of cloud. Most usually we stayed at Page Ndame and on the beach there was an income generating project for the local people. Sticks are driven into the sand and a special seaweed is attached [it will grow from the 'cuttings'. The dried seaweed is sent to Denmark.
It is not hugely profitable though.

The sticks are interlaced with string to attach the seaweed and at low tide women later harvest the weed. Because of the Islam culture, most of the women wore dresses, some down to the ankle. Very difficult for wading through the water.
The glare from the sand is intent and it was only during our last visit did I see dark glasses being used. Makes you wonder about the eye damage caused and resulting from a project that is supposed to benefit local people.

This woman was not harvesting seaweed, but fishing, still in a long dress. She was happy because the day before she was fishing near me when I stood on a skate! I managed to drive it towards her and she speared it plumb, dead center! It was about 40 cm across, so a good size. She told me she sold it to buy food and soap for her family. The area is pretty much fished out and usually octopus is the quarry. Mostly they are sold local restaurants because with the cash they can buy whatever is needed in their households.

We usually stayed upstairs at Paje Ndame [which is the name of the owner] and a local guy. Many of the prime beach sites are being bought up by foreigners, from what I saw, Italians and they are stopping the local people from using the beach in their traditional way. Probably land acquisition through some form of payment to officials.
Some of these people disrespect the local culture - one woman we saw was well over-weight and wearing a yellow bikini - pot belly sticking out and the bottom part of the bikini stuck in her rear crack! Just a bit gross to my mind! And I bet to the local people!

These outrigger canoes lay on the sand at low tide. The tide comes in very quickly when it decides to. The beach is long and flat and there is a reef out there which is just visible if you look hard.

The reef looking back at the island. We liked to walk out at low tide - the reef is under water at high tide. It is quite far and it is necessary to wear footwear because of the sea urchins and their spines.

The reef is quite degraded because of over exploitation and the use of explosives to catch fish or shellfish. None the less there is life out there and it is good to go out there.



A big jelly fish washed up on the beech. I had never seen a bigger one. Just those washed up on the beaches of Christchurch where those stinging bluebottles or man o' war cause problens from time to time.

The streets of Stonetown where it is easy to get lost, but not really lost you always find your way out. They are narrow and really worth exploring. I guess it depends what interests you but there are those doors and interesting shops.
You have watch though that you keep out of the way of motorbikes!

It is always interesting to visit local markets and it is amazing to see the quality of the produce in most places. Zanzibar is one of the spice islands, so there are those smells.






I never got over the romance of those dhows. These days you are able to tour on them.

A sunset from Stonetown. The beach front at Stonetown is most interesting in the evening. There are all of those food stall and very good food it is.
One evening we witnessed a big thunderstorm over the mainland. It went on for maybe twenty minutes and was one of those spectacles you rarely see.

The road leaving Dar es Salaam before it was improved. The improvement meant that many houses had to be demolished and most were actually long time squatters with few rights. They had nowhere to go - the march of progress eh.

This old road was potholed and slow going which make one appreciate good infrastructure.