Trip to Mwanza (Part 1)

Mwanza lies on the Soutwest coast of Lake Victoria. The best way to get there from Arusha is probably to fly! But that's not entirely correct; the best way for some people is to fly. But albeit a long, dusty, tiring journey, it is a Safari across some of the most famous country in the world! Through the Ngorogoro Conversation Area ans the Serengei Plain! Awesome and awe inspiring!

Mo had duties elsewhere and Jo had to go to Mwanza as a volunteer there had completed her assignment which required the debriefing and return of certain equipment. Mo was quite capable of going there by herself, but there was wisdom in my riding shotgun to help with the driving and general support. There were some environment related things I could do there as well. Mags was able to accompany us, but of course the agency did not cover her costs.

Preparations were complete and Jo drove the for the three hours to Karatu. I now know this Safari very well which begs a description.

We took the Dodoma Road, which is a melee of lorries, buses, daladalas, hand carts and people. This stretch of road passes through an area small enterprises have set up business, perhaps semi-industrial, there are taxi stands, shops and it is generally vibrant. Speed bumps have been set up in an effort to control the traffic. Although the road is tarmac, it can be dusty and hot. All this finishes in the compariavely quiet area at the large African Heritage complex (souverniers, meals etc) and almost opposite the new TANAPA complex, which is very impressive indeed. A lot later I will report on a visit there. Then there are the coffee plantations, Arusha Airport - the prison behind, then the village of Mateves. Along this stretch of road is a line of Mjohoro Cassia spectabilis, then on to Kisongo where there is a Wednesday market, otherwise it is quiet.

Just on from Kisongo is the turnoff to Engarora (school has changed its name to Kisongo) and the marram pit. The area here is eroded and fairly barren in drier times. Large rocks here have been piled up and Maasai women make money by knapping (breaking with a hammer) them to make stone chips - these are used in building mainly and sometimes on paths. Very hard work and I did not take photos of them.

Past Meserani where there is a snake park - some time ago there it appears was a road toll because there is a building set to collect tolls - maybe it was a police post?

On again past the Monduli turnoff and the Army Barracks, past the Army houses and climb the plateau to Mti Moja Primary school. Further there are two villages where the biggest business seems to be charcoal manufacture. In the distance it is possible to Lake Manyara (as long as it is not too hazy.

Makuyuni is the turnoff to Mto wa Mbuu. Onwards is Tarangire National park, Babati and Dodoma. We were going to Mto wa Mbuu. Makuyuni bustles sometimes, just a handful of buildings. A fuel stop and the old Maasai women try to sell you cheap trinkets. It is a dusty place but a place to rest before the slog on to Mto wa Mbuu. The River of Mosquitos.

Later I came to know this village more and became unafraid to eat at the local eatery.

Makuyuni was probably an important stop because it is one of the last places to pick up fuel before either heading on to Babati or to Karatu. These days though vehicles don't use as much fuel, but it is still important. We did some work there, but not much. I am pleased to see there is an Mpingo project - to revegetate areas with African Blackwood.

The trip through to Mtu wa Mbu is interesting and is now tar sealed, but then the road was rough, dusty and arduous. Safari vehicle used to go so fast and I quizzed the mechanic of Bobby Safaris and he said the drivers did a lot of damage to their vehicles - just by going so fast. Drivers said this was part of the 'experience' but some of their client told me they were scared 'shitless'. I suppose an adrenalin rush is part of having a good time. There seems to be not much habitation through the area. But there is a school and and entrances to roads going somewhere. There a Baobabs and changing vegetation. The road becomes too dusty so another track becomes the road but this contributes to erosion and thank goodness it is now sealed. From time to time Maasai boys herd cattle or goats and the beg for water in dry times. There seems to be none and once I did see a woman collecting water from a puddle on the side of the road. Mto wa Mbu (River of Mosquitos) is a busy little town, servicing tourists and also as a market town. The Maasai women look striking in their blue shuka - most usually they prefer red, but here it is blue. It is the first stop after the difficult road from Makuyuni - now it is sealed maybe fewer people stop there. I am told it can be a den of inequity because after the safari drivers drop off the tourist for the night, they seek nocturnal company.

Just past the village is the turn off to Lake Manyara, famous for its salt lake and tree climbing lions - we did not go in there.

The road climbs what is called 'The Escarpment' or 'Rift' which was formed by plate movement - I'm not sure but guess that this happened at the same time the Ngorogoro Crater was formed when the mountain - volcano - collapsed inwards. Anyway, whoever laid this road did a good job and even though at this time it was rough going, today the sealed road is very well designed. Once up at the top of the ecsarpment, there is a place to look out over the lake and the land. It is always worth a stop.

The soil becomes red and when the road is wet, it is slippery and there is a need to take care. Good rainfall and fertile soil are reasons the area is well populated, and here I have to lay a complaint about tourists.

Kids on the roadsides will beg for pens and/or money. Tourists do find some pleasure in giving and that is fine if they stop and allow the kids to use their manners. But I have seen too many throw money out the window and watch the kids scramble after it. When you live and interact with kids, it is not helpful that there is an expectation that they will be given something. Kids are expected to be helpful to adults, so even to a guy like me, they should be helpful without the expection of high reward.

At Nkoaranga Primary School, I had been giving a seminar on the environment, and a young fellow followed me into the toilet - well not as you know it, and maybe it was a urinal. He manoevered around to face me as I peed, and he asked me for a pen! He seemed not to see any simarality in the two things and was serious in his request. As we walked back to the class, I told his honestly that I did not have a pen. Later, I borrowed Loti's and 'secretly' slipped it to the lad:-)

The red soil is good for making bricks and they are made by hand in a wooden frame, then left to sun dry. Later they are stacked into the kiln-shape and fired to make a really durable burnt brick.

Karatu is a busy little junction-town; straight ahead is the Ngorogoro crater and the other main road goes to Mbulu. The town is red with dust and water splashes on buildings from heavy rain making the bottom half metre a distinctive red colour. Then the unpainted roofing iron either rusty or with a coating of red dust. It is a place to fuel up and buy stores for the next part of a journey.

Just outside the town is the Lutheran hostel. It was just built then, with finishing touches yet to be done; none the less, it was very habitable. The bulidings - 12 or so twin rooms in one long building - were made of a polished brick which I guess were imported from somewhere. Obviously there was German influence and funding her as a German woman, perhaps even a nun, was supervising activities and especially the dining room. This was not the new dining room, it was yet to be built, but the old one was still a very good place to dine. The evening meal was, I guess, German fare; soup, stew and a banana for pudding. The service and food were unquestionably good!

Electricity had not yet arrived at Karatu and the generator was used sparingly but adequately. There was cold running water in the shower, but nights were cold at this elevated level, so a bucket of hot water was delivered to shower with.

Jo wanted and early start next morning (without breakfast - which was later), so I set my watch alarm for 5:15. I did not like the idea of travelling without a brew, so I went to negotiate with the staff for a Thermos of tea - which was willingly given me.

In the moon light I wandered around the plantings within the compound and 'stole' some seed for future use.

Just one other thing while I remember. There is often a night guard - mostly these guys have it fairly tough. Though there are these new 'security - type' guards now - a part of a company. Anyway at places like this, they will clean your car - partly for something to do during the night, and partly to make a few shillings. Despite the fact they were not asked to do the job, and perhaps it didn't turn out to be that clean - all the same it does no harm to help them out with a few shillings.

Useful Trees

Wood in all forms is being used (cut) seven times faster than it is growing. Foresters calculate this by working out the annual increment or how much each tree is adding to its volume per year. This is done through sampling and is an accurate measurement. Removal of forest can be calculated in a similar way and this would include illegal logging.

Deforestation is a problem worldwide and it contributes to world climate change - certainly there is less rainfall in Tanzania than there used to be. Tanzania used to a food secure country, and its loss of this status is in part, because of deforestation.

I don't know the exact figure but I suspect 90% of the population rely on trees for fuel to keep warm and cook food. In areas like Makumira, kids are sent out to scour the countryside for fallen branches, twigs or pieces of trees. They do not cut live trees because they can't be burnt immediately. The branches are usually knocked down by winds and monkeys.

In villages like Mkonoo, Nadasoito and Muriet, there are problems because deforestation was an outcome of Nyrere's villageization programme. His plan was to settle the population into villages with a school and a clinic, but the people had few resources and built their houses from what the country had to offer - using the local trees. Of course they had to cook and that used more of the vegetation. But now most of the trees have gone and fuel is cow manure (which really is a fertilizer and needs to be used in the crops) and maize cobs after the kernels have been removed. Those who can afford it use charcoal.

It takes two bags of wood to make one bag of charcoal. Charcoal making is one of the few activities local youth have to make money, and it is plain to see the areas where charcoal is made. There will be a village and the surrounding area is devoid of trees! The charcoal is needed in the larger towns and cities because there is no alternative fuel - well there is electricity and kerosene which are used, but not by the majority.

Firing bricks is also a big user of trees, and while cement bricks utilize the labour force, the materials are more expensive and making mud bricks to fire in a make-shift kiln is another money earner for youth.

Places like Arusha are booming and there is a great need for timber. The Department of Forestry planted Cupressus lusitanica which is an ideal building timber, but it is no longer widely planted because of disease problems. But this resourse has been over cut and I was told more logging trucks left the forest at night than during the day. The indigenous resource is also being overcut and some of that is illegal too. As long as there is a demand for it, people will supply it. Trouble is that there is no really good alternative; Eucalyptus is being trialled as is Pinus patula, but this species needs chemical treatment, which is a disadvantage. Grevillea robusta is also suitable, but the wood is termite heaven!

Mpingo for example is African Blackwood - the one all those carvings are made from. This species is very slow growing and now rare. But I have seen guys use Jacaranda, a fast growing Aussie import, This is better because it is sustainable - actually though, the wood is softer and easier to carve; but it is white which is fixed with a liberal coating of black shoe polish. Purists may not like this too much but it is all good for me!

Now my assignment(s) were development projects and this distinction is important. I believe the best development projects are where the target populations have or see ownership in the project. It is very easy to impose personal (and even inappropriate)slants - even with the best intentions. Sometimes this can be a fine line.

Having said that we were in Tanzania to teach, inform and assist in the uptake of knowledge and skills that were outside the rural population's usual experience, so sometime we had to 'drive' the projects. The other factor was that our time was a constraint in that it was limited, so again, the projects had to be 'driven'. Tact and diplomacy were the skills needed to do the driving.

I point this out because I believed (still do) it important to have a wide species range for the rural village people to plant - this is the conservator in me - but the villagers had preferences; usually species that could generate income. I too saw the advantage in this, but I also saw the benefit of diversity and the use of indigenous species.

There may be people out there who can use this information, so I so I will from time to time post species we used and comment about them. I will try to download some pictures as well to make it more interesting to read. (I have found adding pictures sometime comromises the way I have drafted things, so I won't add to this I will do a separate blog).

I have started a separate blog Treetop-ics; actually I wanted to copy this info for it but couldn't quite do it , so I will continue with that for various tree information.

Dovyalis caffra - Kei Apple - Mchongoma.

A thorny tree/shrub tolerating dry conditions once established. Fruits are small, yellow apples.

Used as a secure boundary hedge.

Take seeds from ripe fruit, wash and dry. Sow fresh seed because seed does not store. 1kg of seed has about 30 000 viable seeds. Germination takes place in 18 - 22 days.

After planting out tending to keep weeds away and water at least once a week. Trimming is the best way to make a nice hedge.

There is a high demand for Mchongoma for hedging - in towns and rural areas. Goats do not browse it.

Mchongoma is suitable for village nurseries to grow because it is readily sold to provide income.