Living Safely

Crime does not happen only in third world countries, but they have a fairly bad reputation. I found Tanzania to be generally safe but by following rules. Mind you I did have my share of misadventures.
I was living among the village people and made friends with them and I guess I was a familiar figure in Arusha town.

The basis rules are:
1. Don't show that you carry valuables around. They become a target.
2. Don't wear expensive looking clothes - or jewelry. A modest vehicle helps too!
3. Carry only the immediate spending money in a pocket so you don't show off your wallet/purse.
4. Sometimes I carried a lot of project money - in my socks or in my shoes.
5. Walk confidently, not cockily.
6. Avoid eye contact with people you don't feel comfortable with.
7. Don't go off the beaten track - keep to 'safe areas'.

Now I admit I did not always stick to these rules and I was lucky to help from on high!

The Agency was helpful in this - the excellent training they provided aside - we were only allowed 25 kg of unaccompanied luggage. In contrast, some German missionaries that shipping containers full.

From time to time in Arusha or the villages I would break a tooth on either nyama choma (roasted/BBQ meat) or stones in peanuts. To repair the damage we had to travel to Nairobi where there were better dentists (or so was perceived then) than in Arusha.

Freddy

In Nairobi city, Mags and I were doing a bit of shopping, and I entered a shop to look at shoes. Along came Freddy and spoke to Mags.
'Hi, I'm Freddy from the hotel, I hope your room is comfortable. I am going to buy some medicine, but if you like, I can walk back to the hotel with you after I have been to the shop.'
'Ok,' says Mags, 'But we are not going back just yet.'
We moved along and when I returned to Mags after looking in a window, I found Mags talking to Freddy.
'This is Freddy from the hotel.' Mags told me, 'Have you 5 000 shillings you can loan him to buy medicine?'
'I will give it to you as soon as we reach the hotel.' assures Freddy.
I hadn't recognized him and assumed Mags had and as he left, I asked her if she remembered him. No
We both immediately knew we had been conned!

But not five minutes later another guy arrives to tell he worked at our hotel and was going to buy medicine. I said to him, 'Before you go, we are short of money, can you loan some to me until we get back to the hotel?'
He became angry telling us we did not understand what it was to be poor. Me just moved into a clothing shop and he was gone when we came out.

My Hat

I very much liked my green Nike cap with the Tasmanian Devil stitched on as a logo.
As we were crossing a busy street, a youth came running past and whipped off my cap! He ran down the street. I shouldn't have but I ran after him shouting, 'Mwizi!' (Theif) He had about 20 metres on me but I was assisted by someone in the line of cars (stopped at an intersection) who opened the door and hit him, nearly knocking him to the ground.
He ran across the road towards a group of five men who were standing on the corner. 'Catch him!' I shouted in Swahili, and they did. The youth handed my cap back to me, then the men began to punch him. I tried to line myself up to have a crack too, but decided that would be unwise.
I was unaware that this event was watched by the crowds on the street, and as I walked back to Mags they cheered and clapped me. My chest was heaving and I was gasping for breath but heroes stand tall and don't puff - I tried to emulate this! Unsuccessfully.
I had left Mags in the middle of the road and luckily she was befriended by a street boy. But I had left her vulnerable. That was a lesson for me.

Again!

Some time later, I was walking from the Agency office and woman stopped me to ask if I knew of a way for to gain sponsorship to become a nurse. As I spoke to her, a youth on a bike came riding past and whipped off my trusty cap! I knew I could not run him down! His grin as he looked back at me is still visible in my mind, and I was angry enough to go back to my vehicle and search for him - a pointless exercise! This time my cap was gone.

Foiled!

I took some visitors from New Zealand to see a craftsman using a traditional lathe to make wooden artifacts. They left their bags on the back seat of the Toyota and did not lock the door. In the side mirror I noticed a young fellow creeping towards the door. As he became closer, I reached over and pushed the lock down. I waved to the lad he he walked off.

Again!

We were off in the Maruti with Josiah to conduct a seminar at the village of Mkonoo. We saw the young man who was appointed as supervisor of the village plantings and stopped to give him a lift. He wanted to buy a stock of bread as he owned a small village shop.
While we waited for the bread to be loaded, a hand reached through the window and grabbed Mags' bag. She was quick and gripped hold of it and strap he held, broke. He ran off with nothing, but still Josiah chased him. As he ran, he called back at Josiah, 'Why are you chasing me - I haven't got anything?'
Josiah called back, 'Because you tried to steal from my friend!'
However Josiah did not catch him.

Pick Pockets

There are plenty of pick pockets but both attempts were unsuccessful. Two guys, one each side and one distracts by saying my shoelace is loose, while the other has a go in my pocket. I'm left handed so anything is usually in my left pocket - they target the right! Both attempts were as I walked from the main market.

Cellphone

I was walking to collect my vehicle which was being repaired and I guess from Shoprite, it does become a bit dodgy.
Someone slapped both my shoulders from behind while another grabbed at my cellphone. I fought a little and the phone fell to the ground and I was lucky enough to be first to grab it. The men ran off.
I tucked the phone in the front of my trousers and decided to look for a daladala (bus).
But again from behind, I was grabbed in a bear hug and although I fought and tried to duck away, my phone was lifted. The men ran into an alley and the passers-by confirmed it was not wise to follow!
At the police station there was a large Maasai man who had been robbed of his phone also.

Bandits

While we were on holiday in New Zealand, our house at Makumira was broken into by bandits. They attacked Mbise, our trusted night guard, but with the flat of the bush knife, not the sharp area.
They were after radios and other valuable equipment, but we had none. They missed Mags' engagement ring that was hidden away in a secret place.
Mbise called the nearby secondary school pupils to guard the house while he went for help and to report the break in. The school boys took more stuff than the bandits - but fairly minor stuff really.
When we returned our 'house girl' (the woman we employed to do our washing and cook smoko for the nursery workers) decided to leave us. A week or so her husband arrived with a radio that was the same type as ours - he said it was for sale, so he bought it because he thought it was ours. It was not.
Suspicion sits with them but you never know.

More

Bandits attacked another house up by Nkoaranga Hospital. They had given their dogs something to make them sleep and over threw the guards. They threatened the inhabitants who lost some valuable. The bandits were handed USD1000.

If there is something valuable to rob, then the 'heavies' will come. If there is nothing much of value, there are petty thieves - much more easily handled.

The Other Side

By no means is it all bad!
One day we arrived at our Sanawari home and Mags could not find the door key. There was of course the search of her bag, pockets etc. but to no avail.
We decided to retrace our steps and went to out last 'port of call' - Mac's Partissary where we had called to buy a Boston Bun. There was a young woman working on her sewing machine beside Mac's and she showed us the keys. Mags had them in the lap of her skirt and did not notice when they dropped. Of course we rewarded the young woman.

At Ngarenanyuki I lost the oil filler cap off the Landrover. Kids found it and I received a text to the fact, and was able to retrieve it.

Too Keen to Accuse

People within the Agency would often ask me to take friends into the villages with me, and I am happy to do so. I always give the lecture about taking no valuable.
After I had taken an older couple to Olkung'wado, Kisimiri and Mwakeny I was shocked to hear the next day that other passengers - local people I had given a lift to - had stolen USD500 from the NZ guy I had taken out!
I knew the local people - all good people and I guess who would do such a thing. And I was angry that he had taken the money with him!
At my suggestion, he had another look through his belongings - he found it! He had not taken it after all. Now, what would have happened had I started to accuse people?

Mswakini Celebration

The Tanzania community is very good at performing celebrations and feeding large groups of people. Mostly when I had the privilege of attending, I (we) were somehow at the high table, and I saw this as respect being shown to us for what we were doing within the various communities.
The first of these was the inauguration of the new classroom at Mswakini (funded by the National Parks), as well as the desks, school text books and the goat project.

We arrived at Mswakini at the appointed time and I noted that the drum I had left for the water project was used to make pombe, the traditional brew. The Head Teacher was busy organizing people and there was a lot of activity. A group of Wazee (elders) dressed in their red robes and carrying their fimbo, stood in the shade of an Acacia tree, discussing things in their indomitable way.
There was a large tarpaulin offering shade to the high table and the chairs, ready for the guests of honour, were a modern type not usually seen in the villages. The rest of the prepared seating was the school desks, ['our' new ones and some of the old ones] - all spaced out neatly.
Big E knew some of the National Parks people, so we chatted to them while we waited for the Director of National Parks to arrive - he was late [as is typical for most 'big noises'].



Gradually the area began to fill with the village people - a very colorful scene. The men in their red robes and their fimbos (sticks - walking/carrying) and the women elegant and beautiful in their blue dress and jewelry - shaven headed or neatly trimmed/patterned hair. The bead jewelry and collars were striking - white, red, blue. The long single strings of beads - to knee level - to indicate nursing mothers.
A number of women wore kangas and these too bring colour to the occasion.

Soon the school grounds were packed with people.

The Director of National Parks arrived leading a party of his 'people' and many vehicles - but they took off just as quickly to look at the water project - without us!
On his return we were formally introduced to him and I found him to be a friendly, affable man. We also met with the Regional Commissioner and the Monduli District Education Officer (who I had already met).
I was seated beside the Director of National Parks as the function started.

The introduction reminded me of a union meeting! Everyone was introduced one by one and at the introduction each would call out, 'Mswakini! Oyae!' and the crowd would raise a fist and call back, 'Oyae!'. Some would call, 'Mswakini safi!( clean/great)' or 'Mswakini juu! (Up with Mswakini)' and the last word was called back. Josiah called, 'Msitu ni uhai!' (forests are life or really, forestry is life). Mags and I just gave the greeting, 'Hamjambo' as we were new at this - later we would use 'Mazingira juu! (Up with the environment!).





There were a number of speeches and the crowd & school kids listened respectfully. Most speeches included thanks to NZ High Commission and Hifadhi. Big E spoke about the environment, water, school textbooks, desks and the need to plant trees.
Between the speeches, there were various performances by the school pupils; this successfully varied the day. These performances were excellent, interesting and well-rehearsed. First a larger group entered and sang a song of thanks, mentioning the High Commission and the National Parks Authority - even about the desks, books not forgetting anything. 'Asante sana, la la la!' Then there was a smaller group singing 3 local songs. A boy with a drum and a girl with a rattle - made from bottle tops - performed with style and rhythm.
There were role plays, one directed at parents, imploring on the right of children to go to school,; another about fathers not working in the shamba (farm) and mother expecting girls to work in the home.
Senior boys and girls made amusing solo speeches with actions.
The group of girls presented the risala, a song with a message which was the 'official' thanks, a copy of which was presented to the donor representatives.










Finally the Maasai boys in traditional costume performed their leaping and chanting, then girls came to try to attract their attention, only to receive a cold shoulder.

The Director's speech was longer but he gave us lots of kudos for helping the school even though we faced many problems. He cut the ribbon to open the new classroom. And I symbolically handed the Head Teacher a pile of text books.
We then to the goat shed and the Education Officer cut the ribbon to open the project.











After the opening and the speeches were completed, we filed into the new classroom and people sat according to their status. Apparently though only four women had enough status!
We sat at the high table and were offered beer, Konyagi or soda. Those inside and outside had either the pombe from my drum or soda.
There was the ritual of hand washing. Then the food! A huge platter of rice, tomato & cabbage salad, pilau, roasted meat and roasted banana. The goat shed had become a kitchen and the food was well presented and delicious. The young women serving the food were efficient and very careful regarding hygiene.









The ritual of 'keki', roasted goat was performed and presented to the Director with a short dedication speech. The Director said that he wanted to share the goat and cut small pieces and placed them on a plate. A member of the School Committee fed a piece to each of us [with a fork]
And then was shared with everyone there - other goats had been prepared for those outside. Mags had trouble chewing hers and hid the piece in a handkerchief.
The Regional Commissioner invited us to his place at Lushoto, and the Director gave us a free pass into Tarangire National Park - a rare gift and useful for the five years we were there.
We arrived home safely after a hot, tiring but most interesting day, a once in a lifetime experience. Ah but in the future were were to have more!

Birds

The mammals of Tanzania are most widely known; Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Zebra and Giraffe are among the better known. And this contrasts with the lack of indigenous mammals in New Zealand - save for a small bat.
Surely nobody could go to Africa and not be inspired at the wildlife there.
Most, however don't quite realise that these are vast numbers of beautiful birds - even some ugly ones. Most people if asked to name an African bird, the answer would be, 'Ostrich'.


One of the ugly ones is the Hammerkop, a water bird, or one that lives near  near water.


The Hornbill is another - there are many species of these, but the big ones often visited us at Makumira. One time around 200 came at once - sounded like a helicopter! I think this is a rare event as usually they are in pairs.





A running bird of the plains, the Secretary Bird can run fast and has a variable diet.










There are many species of Woodpecker in Tanzania, unsurprisingly they like to live in wooded areas. The thump, thump of there pecking is very audible.






The Wagtail was an often visitor to our house at Makumira - of course its tail bobbed up and down [constantly]. Saw some in England recently.




The Superb Starling is a colourful contrast to our own Starling, which is an import from Britain.






The pesky Mouse Bird may not be a 'beauty' but it is distinctive and it robs  fruit, even digging holes in  papaya.




The first is the pigeon - there are a number of species and some may be doves, but the sound of them is Africa to me. They are everywhere and are locally called Njiwa, and are eaten if they can be caught.




The Bullbul is the robber of fruit, but spreads seeds. Maybe not as attractive as other birds but never the less is an interesting one.










For colour nothing can beat the Lilac Breasted Roller. A shy bird and often seen in the treetops. Usually out in the bush. It fies quite high and it is difficult to fully see the beauty of it.







There are several species of Bee Eaters but all are colourful and interesting. We saw many in the Ngarenanyuki area.



The Crowned Crane is a large, beautiful bird - National bird of Uganda I think.
Very striking. Loti caught some chick once - ouch!






The Weaver bird is not so much seen but the nest areas are very distinctive.






I have only scratched the surface here and may add to it later - as well as some animals we have seen. I hope it adds to the interest.