Crime does not happen only in third world countries, but they have a fairly bad reputation. I found Tanzania to be generally safe but by following rules. Mind you I did have my share of misadventures.
I was living among the village people and made friends with them and I guess I was a familiar figure in Arusha town.
The basis rules are:
1. Don't show that you carry valuables around. They become a target.
2. Don't wear expensive looking clothes - or jewelry. A modest vehicle helps too!
3. Carry only the immediate spending money in a pocket so you don't show off your wallet/purse.
4. Sometimes I carried a lot of project money - in my socks or in my shoes.
5. Walk confidently, not cockily.
6. Avoid eye contact with people you don't feel comfortable with.
7. Don't go off the beaten track - keep to 'safe areas'.
Now I admit I did not always stick to these rules and I was lucky to help from on high!
The Agency was helpful in this - the excellent training they provided aside - we were only allowed 25 kg of unaccompanied luggage. In contrast, some German missionaries that shipping containers full.
From time to time in Arusha or the villages I would break a tooth on either nyama choma (roasted/BBQ meat) or stones in peanuts. To repair the damage we had to travel to Nairobi where there were better dentists (or so was perceived then) than in Arusha.
I was living among the village people and made friends with them and I guess I was a familiar figure in Arusha town.
The basis rules are:
1. Don't show that you carry valuables around. They become a target.
2. Don't wear expensive looking clothes - or jewelry. A modest vehicle helps too!
3. Carry only the immediate spending money in a pocket so you don't show off your wallet/purse.
4. Sometimes I carried a lot of project money - in my socks or in my shoes.
5. Walk confidently, not cockily.
6. Avoid eye contact with people you don't feel comfortable with.
7. Don't go off the beaten track - keep to 'safe areas'.
Now I admit I did not always stick to these rules and I was lucky to help from on high!
The Agency was helpful in this - the excellent training they provided aside - we were only allowed 25 kg of unaccompanied luggage. In contrast, some German missionaries that shipping containers full.
From time to time in Arusha or the villages I would break a tooth on either nyama choma (roasted/BBQ meat) or stones in peanuts. To repair the damage we had to travel to Nairobi where there were better dentists (or so was perceived then) than in Arusha.
Freddy
In Nairobi city, Mags and I were doing a bit of shopping, and I entered a shop to look at shoes. Along came Freddy and spoke to Mags.
'Hi, I'm Freddy from the hotel, I hope your room is comfortable. I am going to buy some medicine, but if you like, I can walk back to the hotel with you after I have been to the shop.'
'Ok,' says Mags, 'But we are not going back just yet.'
We moved along and when I returned to Mags after looking in a window, I found Mags talking to Freddy.
'This is Freddy from the hotel.' Mags told me, 'Have you 5 000 shillings you can loan him to buy medicine?'
'I will give it to you as soon as we reach the hotel.' assures Freddy.
I hadn't recognized him and assumed Mags had and as he left, I asked her if she remembered him. No
We both immediately knew we had been conned!
But not five minutes later another guy arrives to tell he worked at our hotel and was going to buy medicine. I said to him, 'Before you go, we are short of money, can you loan some to me until we get back to the hotel?'
He became angry telling us we did not understand what it was to be poor. Me just moved into a clothing shop and he was gone when we came out.
'Hi, I'm Freddy from the hotel, I hope your room is comfortable. I am going to buy some medicine, but if you like, I can walk back to the hotel with you after I have been to the shop.'
'Ok,' says Mags, 'But we are not going back just yet.'
We moved along and when I returned to Mags after looking in a window, I found Mags talking to Freddy.
'This is Freddy from the hotel.' Mags told me, 'Have you 5 000 shillings you can loan him to buy medicine?'
'I will give it to you as soon as we reach the hotel.' assures Freddy.
I hadn't recognized him and assumed Mags had and as he left, I asked her if she remembered him. No
We both immediately knew we had been conned!
But not five minutes later another guy arrives to tell he worked at our hotel and was going to buy medicine. I said to him, 'Before you go, we are short of money, can you loan some to me until we get back to the hotel?'
He became angry telling us we did not understand what it was to be poor. Me just moved into a clothing shop and he was gone when we came out.
My Hat
I very much liked my green Nike cap with the Tasmanian Devil stitched on as a logo.
As we were crossing a busy street, a youth came running past and whipped off my cap! He ran down the street. I shouldn't have but I ran after him shouting, 'Mwizi!' (Theif) He had about 20 metres on me but I was assisted by someone in the line of cars (stopped at an intersection) who opened the door and hit him, nearly knocking him to the ground.
He ran across the road towards a group of five men who were standing on the corner. 'Catch him!' I shouted in Swahili, and they did. The youth handed my cap back to me, then the men began to punch him. I tried to line myself up to have a crack too, but decided that would be unwise.
I was unaware that this event was watched by the crowds on the street, and as I walked back to Mags they cheered and clapped me. My chest was heaving and I was gasping for breath but heroes stand tall and don't puff - I tried to emulate this! Unsuccessfully.
I had left Mags in the middle of the road and luckily she was befriended by a street boy. But I had left her vulnerable. That was a lesson for me.
As we were crossing a busy street, a youth came running past and whipped off my cap! He ran down the street. I shouldn't have but I ran after him shouting, 'Mwizi!' (Theif) He had about 20 metres on me but I was assisted by someone in the line of cars (stopped at an intersection) who opened the door and hit him, nearly knocking him to the ground.
He ran across the road towards a group of five men who were standing on the corner. 'Catch him!' I shouted in Swahili, and they did. The youth handed my cap back to me, then the men began to punch him. I tried to line myself up to have a crack too, but decided that would be unwise.
I was unaware that this event was watched by the crowds on the street, and as I walked back to Mags they cheered and clapped me. My chest was heaving and I was gasping for breath but heroes stand tall and don't puff - I tried to emulate this! Unsuccessfully.
I had left Mags in the middle of the road and luckily she was befriended by a street boy. But I had left her vulnerable. That was a lesson for me.
Again!
Some time later, I was walking from the Agency office and woman stopped me to ask if I knew of a way for to gain sponsorship to become a nurse. As I spoke to her, a youth on a bike came riding past and whipped off my trusty cap! I knew I could not run him down! His grin as he looked back at me is still visible in my mind, and I was angry enough to go back to my vehicle and search for him - a pointless exercise! This time my cap was gone.
Foiled!
I took some visitors from New Zealand to see a craftsman using a traditional lathe to make wooden artifacts. They left their bags on the back seat of the Toyota and did not lock the door. In the side mirror I noticed a young fellow creeping towards the door. As he became closer, I reached over and pushed the lock down. I waved to the lad he he walked off.
Again!
We were off in the Maruti with Josiah to conduct a seminar at the village of Mkonoo. We saw the young man who was appointed as supervisor of the village plantings and stopped to give him a lift. He wanted to buy a stock of bread as he owned a small village shop.
While we waited for the bread to be loaded, a hand reached through the window and grabbed Mags' bag. She was quick and gripped hold of it and strap he held, broke. He ran off with nothing, but still Josiah chased him. As he ran, he called back at Josiah, 'Why are you chasing me - I haven't got anything?'
Josiah called back, 'Because you tried to steal from my friend!'
However Josiah did not catch him.
While we waited for the bread to be loaded, a hand reached through the window and grabbed Mags' bag. She was quick and gripped hold of it and strap he held, broke. He ran off with nothing, but still Josiah chased him. As he ran, he called back at Josiah, 'Why are you chasing me - I haven't got anything?'
Josiah called back, 'Because you tried to steal from my friend!'
However Josiah did not catch him.
Pick Pockets
There are plenty of pick pockets but both attempts were unsuccessful. Two guys, one each side and one distracts by saying my shoelace is loose, while the other has a go in my pocket. I'm left handed so anything is usually in my left pocket - they target the right! Both attempts were as I walked from the main market.
Cellphone
I was walking to collect my vehicle which was being repaired and I guess from Shoprite, it does become a bit dodgy.
Someone slapped both my shoulders from behind while another grabbed at my cellphone. I fought a little and the phone fell to the ground and I was lucky enough to be first to grab it. The men ran off.
I tucked the phone in the front of my trousers and decided to look for a daladala (bus).
But again from behind, I was grabbed in a bear hug and although I fought and tried to duck away, my phone was lifted. The men ran into an alley and the passers-by confirmed it was not wise to follow!
At the police station there was a large Maasai man who had been robbed of his phone also.
Someone slapped both my shoulders from behind while another grabbed at my cellphone. I fought a little and the phone fell to the ground and I was lucky enough to be first to grab it. The men ran off.
I tucked the phone in the front of my trousers and decided to look for a daladala (bus).
But again from behind, I was grabbed in a bear hug and although I fought and tried to duck away, my phone was lifted. The men ran into an alley and the passers-by confirmed it was not wise to follow!
At the police station there was a large Maasai man who had been robbed of his phone also.
Bandits
While we were on holiday in New Zealand, our house at Makumira was broken into by bandits. They attacked Mbise, our trusted night guard, but with the flat of the bush knife, not the sharp area.
They were after radios and other valuable equipment, but we had none. They missed Mags' engagement ring that was hidden away in a secret place.
Mbise called the nearby secondary school pupils to guard the house while he went for help and to report the break in. The school boys took more stuff than the bandits - but fairly minor stuff really.
When we returned our 'house girl' (the woman we employed to do our washing and cook smoko for the nursery workers) decided to leave us. A week or so her husband arrived with a radio that was the same type as ours - he said it was for sale, so he bought it because he thought it was ours. It was not.
Suspicion sits with them but you never know.
They were after radios and other valuable equipment, but we had none. They missed Mags' engagement ring that was hidden away in a secret place.
Mbise called the nearby secondary school pupils to guard the house while he went for help and to report the break in. The school boys took more stuff than the bandits - but fairly minor stuff really.
When we returned our 'house girl' (the woman we employed to do our washing and cook smoko for the nursery workers) decided to leave us. A week or so her husband arrived with a radio that was the same type as ours - he said it was for sale, so he bought it because he thought it was ours. It was not.
Suspicion sits with them but you never know.
More
Bandits attacked another house up by Nkoaranga Hospital. They had given their dogs something to make them sleep and over threw the guards. They threatened the inhabitants who lost some valuable. The bandits were handed USD1000.
If there is something valuable to rob, then the 'heavies' will come. If there is nothing much of value, there are petty thieves - much more easily handled.
If there is something valuable to rob, then the 'heavies' will come. If there is nothing much of value, there are petty thieves - much more easily handled.
The Other Side
By no means is it all bad!
One day we arrived at our Sanawari home and Mags could not find the door key. There was of course the search of her bag, pockets etc. but to no avail.
We decided to retrace our steps and went to out last 'port of call' - Mac's Partissary where we had called to buy a Boston Bun. There was a young woman working on her sewing machine beside Mac's and she showed us the keys. Mags had them in the lap of her skirt and did not notice when they dropped. Of course we rewarded the young woman.
At Ngarenanyuki I lost the oil filler cap off the Landrover. Kids found it and I received a text to the fact, and was able to retrieve it.
One day we arrived at our Sanawari home and Mags could not find the door key. There was of course the search of her bag, pockets etc. but to no avail.
We decided to retrace our steps and went to out last 'port of call' - Mac's Partissary where we had called to buy a Boston Bun. There was a young woman working on her sewing machine beside Mac's and she showed us the keys. Mags had them in the lap of her skirt and did not notice when they dropped. Of course we rewarded the young woman.
At Ngarenanyuki I lost the oil filler cap off the Landrover. Kids found it and I received a text to the fact, and was able to retrieve it.
Too Keen to Accuse
People within the Agency would often ask me to take friends into the villages with me, and I am happy to do so. I always give the lecture about taking no valuable.
After I had taken an older couple to Olkung'wado, Kisimiri and Mwakeny I was shocked to hear the next day that other passengers - local people I had given a lift to - had stolen USD500 from the NZ guy I had taken out!
I knew the local people - all good people and I guess who would do such a thing. And I was angry that he had taken the money with him!
At my suggestion, he had another look through his belongings - he found it! He had not taken it after all. Now, what would have happened had I started to accuse people?
After I had taken an older couple to Olkung'wado, Kisimiri and Mwakeny I was shocked to hear the next day that other passengers - local people I had given a lift to - had stolen USD500 from the NZ guy I had taken out!
I knew the local people - all good people and I guess who would do such a thing. And I was angry that he had taken the money with him!
At my suggestion, he had another look through his belongings - he found it! He had not taken it after all. Now, what would have happened had I started to accuse people?
No comments:
Post a Comment