Before I begin on the DME phase of my footsteps, there are some things to record, but not in so much detail.
There were two Nurse Trainers who were to work at Shirati, on the shores of Lake Victoria. One of the nurses was with her family - husband and a two children, a boy and a girl - the other was a young woman on her own.
To get there we needed to cross the Serengeti again but this time, as I knew the boss of the National Parks, I tried to negotiate passage without park fees. He waived the fees for the new volunteers, but he thought it fair that Jo and I pay the levies.
In the event, we did manage to negotiate a pass through at no charge with the cooperation of the Park Rangers who listened to our case.
There was a culture shock for our vols at the Shirati Hospital because here was a hospital with few of 'what is normal in NZ hospitals' and the leper ward demonstrated the constraints these women would face.
The single woman was very conscious of puddles of water close to the house and asked if I could arrange mosquito proofing under doors and around windows.
I think it was helpful to all the volunteers to understand that the hospital had gone to some great effort to provide safe and good accommodation for them. We had had a meal with the Superintendent of the hospital and I was able to point out that his house had far fewer facilities than theirs'.
These vols were to have language training at Shirati or actually just towards the border control post. We went there to make the arrangements and Jo was satisfied with the arrangements.
There was a major constraint: because the nurses were working at the hospital, they had no means of transport but the Superintendent said they could use a hospital vehicle to go to Musoma for stores once a month.
I knew that most things could be purchased at the local Shirati shops - madukani - but they would probably need better Kiswahili. Actually the two kids, though going to school and with friends, soon picked up Kiswahili and the local language as well!
But to give a start Jo and I took them to Musoma and I was able to teach a little about shopping in the market and what to look for - established some contacts I guess.
The road into Shirati is a long dusty one from a sealed main Mwanza/Nairobi road and on our way back from Musoma, we encountered a man with a bike carrying an obviously very sick woman and heading for the hospital - but still some kilometers distant. We stopped and this was bread and butter to the nurses - they were into action doing their 'thing' and was probably the best thing that could have happened. The sick woman recovered well.
Before Jo and I left, thinking that the family had their own built in support, I asked a couple of local kids to call in on the single one and give her some company. I'm not exactly sure that this happened but my knowledge of Tanzanian kids suggest they would have.
-----
-------
There were two Nurse Trainers who were to work at Shirati, on the shores of Lake Victoria. One of the nurses was with her family - husband and a two children, a boy and a girl - the other was a young woman on her own.
To get there we needed to cross the Serengeti again but this time, as I knew the boss of the National Parks, I tried to negotiate passage without park fees. He waived the fees for the new volunteers, but he thought it fair that Jo and I pay the levies.
In the event, we did manage to negotiate a pass through at no charge with the cooperation of the Park Rangers who listened to our case.
There was a culture shock for our vols at the Shirati Hospital because here was a hospital with few of 'what is normal in NZ hospitals' and the leper ward demonstrated the constraints these women would face.
The single woman was very conscious of puddles of water close to the house and asked if I could arrange mosquito proofing under doors and around windows.
I think it was helpful to all the volunteers to understand that the hospital had gone to some great effort to provide safe and good accommodation for them. We had had a meal with the Superintendent of the hospital and I was able to point out that his house had far fewer facilities than theirs'.
These vols were to have language training at Shirati or actually just towards the border control post. We went there to make the arrangements and Jo was satisfied with the arrangements.
There was a major constraint: because the nurses were working at the hospital, they had no means of transport but the Superintendent said they could use a hospital vehicle to go to Musoma for stores once a month.
I knew that most things could be purchased at the local Shirati shops - madukani - but they would probably need better Kiswahili. Actually the two kids, though going to school and with friends, soon picked up Kiswahili and the local language as well!
But to give a start Jo and I took them to Musoma and I was able to teach a little about shopping in the market and what to look for - established some contacts I guess.
The road into Shirati is a long dusty one from a sealed main Mwanza/Nairobi road and on our way back from Musoma, we encountered a man with a bike carrying an obviously very sick woman and heading for the hospital - but still some kilometers distant. We stopped and this was bread and butter to the nurses - they were into action doing their 'thing' and was probably the best thing that could have happened. The sick woman recovered well.
Before Jo and I left, thinking that the family had their own built in support, I asked a couple of local kids to call in on the single one and give her some company. I'm not exactly sure that this happened but my knowledge of Tanzanian kids suggest they would have.
Four times I have had the privilege (and thrill) of driving through Ngorongoro Conservation Area, each time staying overnight at the Karatu Lutheran Hostel. I have spent two Christmases there one with old friends/vols (plus Nai) and the other while, Mags was recovering in NZ , with Upendo, Eriki and Vai.
There is no need to fully report on these experiences but perhaps I will post some pictures.
There is no need to fully report on these experiences but perhaps I will post some pictures.
-------
Zanzibar is one of my favorite places on this Earth and we have visited there on four occasions. The voyage on the old catamaran The Flying Horse was out favorite!
Each time we went there was purely for recreation and our experience is probably no different to any other tourist - though speaking the language is an advantage.
There are two events though that do stand out. These were both because of Mo's passion for mollusks, land and sea - snails/shellfish.
We always liked to stay at The Haven whenever we were in Stonetown and Paje Ndame when on the East coast - we recommend them!
Anyway, Mo had collected a number of shellfish and drowned them in sea water while we were at Paje Ndame. Back in Stonetown, Mo & Jo set about cleaning them at an outside tap at The Haven. Well the stink filtered through the guesthouse and when Mo & Jo came in for breakfast, it was only Mags and I who knew the reason for the stink and it took all out control to stop from laughing out loud.
The next trip we decided to hire a Suzuki car and travel for a couple of days tour around the island.
We had seen an area of forest and Mo was keen to explore it for snails. There was a sign that no firewood was to be taken and we thought that fair, but nothing to say that entry was prohibited.
Mo went into one area and I another, and soon I heard voices, angry voices and Mo was asked what he was doing; surprised he replied by asking what they thought he was doing. They arrested him!
I ditched my snails and followed them up to the car. They claimed to police, but had no uniform - I didn't think to ask for ID.
They put Mo into their car, not before he smuggled his snails to Mags. They sped off and we followed in the hire car. Mo later told us that they had asked if he was afraid, and he was not!
They stopped at the village police station and the three 'arresting officers' put their case to the desk sergeant. I butted in when they misrepresented things (because I understood what they were saying) and Mo kept saying that if they were arresting him, they had better call the NZ embassy! The sergeant told me the other guys were to speak first and us second.
Basically they said that we were in the forest illegally and that they wanted Mo formally arrested - they hadn't caught me.
I advised Mo to keep quiet and I would try to smooth things over.
When I had my turn, I told the sergeant that we were doing nothing wrong or illegal - in my pouch I had my work permit stating that I was Environmental Coordinator for Hifadhi and I also had a letter from the Tanzanian government with my photo stating that I was working as a volunteer from NZ.
We were released.
-------
Perhaps there is more..... of course there is.
In reality, I have to thank Big E for the opportunity to work in Tanzania and Mo & Jo who remain good friends.
With us going to Makumira, there was a change of guard and Mo andJo's contract was up and the fish farmers resigned. I still am not sure how I should deal with the 'not so good things'.
My good friend Mch. Ndosi suggested that I tell the good things - there is a balance but this is in a way a history.
Anyway, just because we were at Makumira and with DME, we still could not give up our old life and paid many visits. I always bought my beef from my friend at Sanawari and my vegetable from Bazili's mother who had a stall nearby. There is a small note there - expats may say that 'bartering' is an important tool in buying things. That is so, but in the small markets, the veges are set in small pile and everyone knows they are (were) 100/- per pile. For the beef, 1000/- per kg but that is with bone and the bones are chips because it is cut with a panga so I bought boneless steak at 1200/- per kg. I also bought a kilo of liver and shared it with the kids - but that's later and another story.
Each time we went there was purely for recreation and our experience is probably no different to any other tourist - though speaking the language is an advantage.
There are two events though that do stand out. These were both because of Mo's passion for mollusks, land and sea - snails/shellfish.
We always liked to stay at The Haven whenever we were in Stonetown and Paje Ndame when on the East coast - we recommend them!
Anyway, Mo had collected a number of shellfish and drowned them in sea water while we were at Paje Ndame. Back in Stonetown, Mo & Jo set about cleaning them at an outside tap at The Haven. Well the stink filtered through the guesthouse and when Mo & Jo came in for breakfast, it was only Mags and I who knew the reason for the stink and it took all out control to stop from laughing out loud.
The next trip we decided to hire a Suzuki car and travel for a couple of days tour around the island.
We had seen an area of forest and Mo was keen to explore it for snails. There was a sign that no firewood was to be taken and we thought that fair, but nothing to say that entry was prohibited.
Mo went into one area and I another, and soon I heard voices, angry voices and Mo was asked what he was doing; surprised he replied by asking what they thought he was doing. They arrested him!
I ditched my snails and followed them up to the car. They claimed to police, but had no uniform - I didn't think to ask for ID.
They put Mo into their car, not before he smuggled his snails to Mags. They sped off and we followed in the hire car. Mo later told us that they had asked if he was afraid, and he was not!
They stopped at the village police station and the three 'arresting officers' put their case to the desk sergeant. I butted in when they misrepresented things (because I understood what they were saying) and Mo kept saying that if they were arresting him, they had better call the NZ embassy! The sergeant told me the other guys were to speak first and us second.
Basically they said that we were in the forest illegally and that they wanted Mo formally arrested - they hadn't caught me.
I advised Mo to keep quiet and I would try to smooth things over.
When I had my turn, I told the sergeant that we were doing nothing wrong or illegal - in my pouch I had my work permit stating that I was Environmental Coordinator for Hifadhi and I also had a letter from the Tanzanian government with my photo stating that I was working as a volunteer from NZ.
We were released.
-------
Perhaps there is more..... of course there is.
In reality, I have to thank Big E for the opportunity to work in Tanzania and Mo & Jo who remain good friends.
With us going to Makumira, there was a change of guard and Mo andJo's contract was up and the fish farmers resigned. I still am not sure how I should deal with the 'not so good things'.
My good friend Mch. Ndosi suggested that I tell the good things - there is a balance but this is in a way a history.
Anyway, just because we were at Makumira and with DME, we still could not give up our old life and paid many visits. I always bought my beef from my friend at Sanawari and my vegetable from Bazili's mother who had a stall nearby. There is a small note there - expats may say that 'bartering' is an important tool in buying things. That is so, but in the small markets, the veges are set in small pile and everyone knows they are (were) 100/- per pile. For the beef, 1000/- per kg but that is with bone and the bones are chips because it is cut with a panga so I bought boneless steak at 1200/- per kg. I also bought a kilo of liver and shared it with the kids - but that's later and another story.
No comments:
Post a Comment